By Peter | Updated: October 23, 2025
Editor’s Note (October 23, 2025 Update): This guide has been comprehensively updated with firsthand insights from our recent SH21 road trip to Theth in September 2025. We’ve added our new video of the drive, personal photos confirming the road conditions, and crucial, up-to-date driving techniques (like engine braking and handling blind turns) to make your journey safe and memorable.
Is It Safe to drive the SH21 Road to Theth in 2025?
Quick Answer: Yes, the SH21 road to Theth is safe to drive, but is a true technical driving challenge. The 76 km route from Shkoder (Shkodër) to Theth (Thethi) involves 18% steep hairpin bends, a climb up to 1,750 meters to the Qafa e Thores pass, and then a descent back down to the valley lying 850 meters above sea level, to the village of Theth.
The good news is that the road is of excellent quality throughout. We drove it in the autumn of 2025. This guide will show you (in video too) what to look out for to safely reach the gateway to the Albanian Alps, from where you can hike to the Grunas Waterfall, the northern Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), or even to Valbona.
How to Get from Shkoder to Theth: All Travel Options
We rented a car at Tirana airport. While buses run between Tirana and Shkoder (no rail service at all), the journey time is usually 2.5-3 hours. By car, we comfortably reached Albania’s fifth-largest city in 1.5 hours, even trying out a new 130 km/h motorway section.
From Shkoder, the most flexible option to experience the SH21 to Theth is to drive your rental car. For budget-conscious travelers, a daily minibus service is available from Shkoder, departing around 7 AM for about €10 per person. A taxi offers a swift, private journey for a higher cost, and pre-arranged tours handle all the logistics for you.
Theth village in the heart of the Albanian Alps, now fully accessible via the paved SH21 road from Shkoder.
Do I Need a 4×4 for the SH21 Road to Theth, or Is a Normal Car Enough?
Choosing the right vehicle is the single most important decision for your trip. Your selection should depend on the season, your driving comfort level, and the specific location of your accommodation.
Best Standard Cars for Driving to Theth
Standard Cars (e.g., Hyundai Elantra, Toyota Yaris Cross): These are perfectly suitable if you only plan to drive to Theth village in summer. The SH21 asphalt is of excellent quality.
Why an SUV Is Recommended
SUVs (e.g., Dacia Duster, Hyundai Tucson): An SUV is our top recommendation. If you want to move around within the village, you’ll need a model with higher ground clearance, as the local roads are unpaved and full of potholes. This is also the ideal choice for first-time visitors or anyone traveling in the shoulder seasons (May-June, September-October). We rented a Hyundai Bayon and didn’t regret it.
When a Full 4×4 Is Necessary
4×4 Vehicles (e.g., Toyota Land Cruiser, Suzuki Jimny): A full 4×4 is generally overkill for the main road. They become essential only for winter travel or early spring.
Best car for SH21 Theth road
For a detailed breakdown of vehicle types, check out our guide: Best car for the Albanian Alps: Shkoder, Theth, Valbona.
(We also have a comprehensive guide on car rental in Albania (covering insurance, traffic norms, and speed limits) and a specific look at car rental options in Tirana.)
Our drove on the SH21 from Shkoder to Theth village on September 2025:
Panoramic view from Thore Pass on the SH21 to Theth, showcasing the dramatic peaks of the Albanian Alps.
Where to Find Mountain-Ready Rentals for Your SH21 Adventure?
After analyzing hundreds of Theth bookings, these platforms consistently deliver the vehicle categories and insurance coverage that matter most for mountain driving:
DiscoverCars has become our go-to recommendation for Albanian Alps trips. Their inventory filters make it easy to find SUVs with the right clearance specs, and their 220,000+ Trustpilot reviews (4.6/5 rating) give you confidence you’re dealing with proven reliability. Particularly valuable when you need to compare multiple suppliers quickly.
Localrent excels at cross-border flexibility and often offers lower deposit requirements – crucial if you’re planning to explore beyond Albania. Many of their Albanian partners can arrange Green Card documentation for neighboring countries, and their “pay at pickup” options reduce upfront costs.
Rent from Locals connects you directly with local Albanian owners who know these mountain roads intimately. Their 4.5+ Trustpilot rating reflects personalized service – many owners will actually advise you on current road conditions and the best routes to your specific guesthouse.
Gravel road with potholes in Theth village, showing that while the SH21 road is paved to the village, local streets may require careful driving and the right vehicle choice.
The SH21 Drive from Shkoder to Theth: Our Experience
We started early from our accommodation in Shkoder, at sunrise, 6:30 AM, hoping to avoid heavy oncoming traffic. The plan worked. Be sure to pack sunglasses, as the sun will be in your eyes for a large part of the journey.
It’s essential to refuel in Shkoder. We only saw one more petrol station on the way, the Kastrati station in Kopik on the right side of the road, just before the road starts to climb into the mountains.
Safety and Practical Tips for the SH21 Drive
Here’s what to expect on the SH21:
- Length: 76-78 km (depending on your starting point in the city).
- Time: 2-3.5 hours, depending on traffic and time of day. You won’t be able to overtake much.
- Mobile Signal: There is no mobile signal on parts of SH21. It’s not possible to get lost, just follow the road.
- Navigation: To be on the safe side, download the Google offline map or Maps.me.
- Service Provider: According to experience, Vodafone’s coverage in the mountains is better than the other major local provider, One. You can get various mobile tourist packs at the airport (we chose the Unlimited TERA internet package for €33).
What Is the Most Dangerous Section of Road on the SH21 to Theth?
The most dangerous section of the SH21 to Theth is the 12 km descent from Qafa e Thores Pass (Qafa e Thorës Pass) into Theth. It features 27 sharp hairpin turns, steep 15–18% grades, no guardrails, and sudden weather changes. The journey from Shkoder to Theth unfolds in four distinct stages, each with its character and challenges.
Here is how the drive looks, broken down into stages:
- Stage 1: Shkoder (SH1 exit) to Kopik (25 km, 30-40 minutes): Straight, nothing special. After a right turn, you start climbing the SH21 into the mountains.
- Stage 2: Shkoder to Boge Valley (45-60 minutes): This is your gentle warm-up. The road gradually climbs through agricultural valleys.
- Stage 3: Boge to Qafa e Thores Pass (60-75 minutes): The technical challenge begins here. The road narrows significantly, the gradients steepen to 12-15%, and you’ll encounter frequent blind corners.
- Stage 4: Qafa e Thores Pass Summit (1,700m): There is a café and a viewpoint at the top of the pass. You can stop for a few minutes to admire the chains of the Albanian Alps and take photos of the landscape.
- Stage 5: Descent to Theth (45-75 minutes): This is the final and most demanding stage: a 12-kilometer descent with a sustained 15-18% grade and 27 major hairpin turns.
SH21 Road Conditions & Essential Driving Techniques
- Extreme Gradients: Up to 18% steep sections in the hairpins.
- Narrow Road Width: There are some pull-offs. Let the locals—who generally drive faster than 30-40 km/h due to local knowledge—pass you at the wider sections before the turns.
- Safety Barriers: Although you can read in many places that safety barriers are missing, we did not experience this in September 2025; it felt safe to us.
Because we started early, we were lucky to have sparse oncoming traffic, so we reached Theth in 2 hours. The drive was less stressful than we expected; there were only a few turns where we had to “pray” that “nothing comes from the other side right now.”
While experienced drivers under ideal conditions can complete the drive in just over 2 hours, the average time is closer to 2.5 hours. We recommend budgeting 3 to 3.5 hours for most summer travelers to account for higher traffic and cautious driving on the route.
Breathtaking view of the Albanian Alps from Theth village, a stunning reward after completing the SH21 mountain drive.
How to Use Engine Braking on the SH21 Descent Safely
Here are the key techniques for the most challenging parts:
Engine Braking is Your Best Friend: As you begin the long, steep 12km descent from the Qafa e Thores pass, your brake pedal alone won’t be enough. Relying solely on your brakes will cause them to overheat, leading to a dangerous condition known as brake fade. To prevent this, use engine braking by shifting into 1st or 2nd gear. This allows your engine to control your speed and keeps your brakes cool.
When to Stop and Cool Your Brakes on Mountain Roads
The “Soft Brake” Method: If you ever notice your brake pedal feeling spongy or less responsive, this is a red flag. Immediately find a safe spot to pull over and let your brakes cool down for 10-15 minutes.
How to Handle Blind Turns in Albania (Honking vs. Slowing Down)
The “Honk Before Every Blind Turn” Tip: We had read that honking before blind turns is a local custom to alert oncoming traffic. However, we didn’t experience this during our drive. Instead, we simply slowed down until we could see any oncoming traffic. Giving a quick horn blast is still a recommended safety measure, but cautious speed is just as effective.
Best Speed to Maintain on SH21 Switchbacks
Speed Discipline Saves Lives: No matter how confident you feel, maintain a maximum speed of 15-25 km/h on the switchbacks. The road’s steepness and lack of escape routes mean that even a minor misjudgment can have serious consequences.
Arrival in Theth: Sights, Hikes, and Accommodation
After parking (we turned right after the bridge and left the car at the first opportunity, as the roads in the village are unpaved, pitted, and potholed) and breathing a sigh of relief, you can start exploring Theth National Park. Theth isn’t a dense village, but rather scattered groups of houses in a beautiful green valley, surrounded by rugged 2,500-meter peaks.
The Theth Church and Lock-in Tower (Kulla)
The village’s most famous and photographed building is the Theth Church (Kisha e Thethit). Built in 1892, the Catholic church with its distinctive steep shingle roof and the mountains towering in the background (especially the Maja e Harapit peak) is truly a picture-postcard sight. During communism, it served as a public hospital; all locals over 30 were born here.
Besides the church, Theth’s other famous building is the “Kulla” or Lock-in Tower, a dark memento of the Kanun (ancient Albanian customary law) and the institution of blood feuds, where men from families involved in a feud could take refuge.
Accommodation and Dining Prices in Theth
There are no large hotels in Theth. Accommodation is almost exclusively in guesthouses (Albanian: bujtina) run by local families. These are simple, but generally very clean and extremely friendly, offering hearty, home-cooked meals (typically half-board).
We sat down at a local restaurant for grilled chicken and vegetables with drinks, paying €24 for two people; the portion was delicious and generous.
A note on booking: In early September, there were no free rooms left for the end of the month. Capacity is limited, so if you plan to stay, it’s recommended to book 2-3 months in advance.
Planning your trip to Theth? Check out the best available accommodations now!
Theth National Park and Hiking
The village itself is in the heart of the 70-square-kilometer Theth National Park, established in 1966. This is the starting point for the most important hiking trails, including to the Grunas Waterfall and the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), as well as the famous Theth-Valbona crossing, one of Europe’s most beautiful day hikes.
Can I Drive to Theth in Winter? What Are the Restrictions?
The road to Theth is heavily influenced by the seasons, and your travel window dictates the conditions you’ll face.
Best Time of Day to Start the SH21 Drive from Shkoder
Summer (July-August) is the optimal time: The roads are dry, daylight hours are long, and temperatures are warm. Be prepared for high traffic and the possibility of afternoon thunderstorms.
Weather Conditions That Make the SH21 Unsafe
Shoulder Seasons (May-June, September-October): These months can bring unpredictable weather, with the possibility of road debris from winter damage. An SUV with AWD is highly recommended, and checking the weather forecast before departure is essential.
Winter (November-April) is generally a no-go: The pass typically closes due to snow and ice. If you are determined to travel during this time, a 4×4 with winter equipment is an absolute necessity, and you must check local road conditions with your accommodation beforehand.
Emergency Preparations for Driving SH21: Costs, Risks, and Safety Gear
Driving the SH21 requires a mindset of preparedness. The remote nature of the road means that you cannot rely on roadside assistance or cell phone service.
Your pre-drive checklist should include: a full vehicle inspection, weather verification, a communication with your guesthouse, and essential supplies like water, warm clothes, and a first-aid kit.
Be aware of your rental car’s insurance policy. Standard coverage often excludes damage from “off-road” driving, undercarriage damage, and towing costs from remote locations. Play it safe and read our Car Rental Insurance Exclusions in Albania 2025: What’s Not Covered? article!
Brake failure is a very real danger, as is getting stuck due to unexpected weather. Proper preparation isn’t just about safety; it’s about avoiding expensive and time-consuming problems.
Is the SH21 Road to Theth Right for You? How to Decide
Ultimately, the choice to drive the SH21 is a personal one.
Green Light Indicators: your travel is planned for optimal conditions, you have a suitable vehicle, and your timeline is flexible.
Red Light Warnings: you have a tight schedule, weather conditions are uncertain, or your vehicle has limitations.
Confident Drive Through Preparation
Success hinges on an honest assessment of your skills, choosing the right vehicle, and preparing for the unexpected. The reward for your preparation is an unforgettable journey.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) – Is SH21 to Theth Safe to Drive?
1., Can I drive SH21 in a standard rental car?
Yes, SH21 is fully paved and accessible with standard rental cars in summer (July–August) under dry weather conditions. However, for better safety and comfort, an SUV is strongly recommended due to steep gradients and tight turns.
2., What is the best time to drive to Theth?
Start your journey between 7:00–8:00 AM to maximize daylight and avoid afternoon weather changes, especially during summer thunderstorm season.
3., Is GPS reliable on the road to Theth?
No, most of SH21 has little to no mobile coverage. The signal typically disappears after leaving Bogë and only returns upon reaching Theth village. Offline navigation is essential.u003cbru003e
4., Are there fuel stations along SH21 to Theth?
There are several stations in Shkoder, but the last petrol station is the Kastrati at Kopik, right at the beginning of the SH21. There are no refueling options on the way to Theth.
5., What happens if my brakes overheat on the way down to Theth?
Pull over immediately in a safe spot and let the brakes cool for 10–15 minutes. Use engine braking in 1st or 2nd gear on descents to prevent overheating in the first place.
About the Author: Peter Falussy As an apartment owner in Albania, I not only offer accommodation on the coast, but I have also been traveling and documenting the country for years. In my articles, I share firsthand, useful information about holidays in Albania—whether it’s about accommodation, beaches, excursions, or prices. The site may also contain affiliate links, which cost you nothing extra but help maintain the site. Thank you for being here!
🔍 More about me: https://carhirealbania.com/about/
🧷 My LinkedIn profile: https://www.linkedin.com/in/falussy-peter
📷 Most of the photos in this article are my own, taken during my travels in Albania. Where other sources were used, it is noted.
