By Peter | Updated: October 2, 2025
Editor’s Note (October 2, 2025 Update): This article has been recently updated with insights from our latest SH8 road trip in September 2025. We’ve added a brand-new drone video of the Llogara Pass, a detailed photo gallery, and up-to-date tips to help make your journey unforgettable.
Start Your SH8 Road Trip in Albania: What to Expect
An Albanian Riviera road trip doesn’t get more iconic than the SH8 highway—a breathtaking coastal drive that rivals anything in the Mediterranean. Forget the Amalfi Coast and put Big Sur on hold; this is one of Europe’s most dramatic routes, clinging to mountainsides as it climbs toward the legendary Llogara Pass. We’ve driven the entire SH8 from Vlorë to Sarandë, and in this updated article, we’ll show you exactly what to expect, what to watch out for, and which beaches are truly worth the stop.
Driving the SH8 Road: From Vlorë to Sarandë via Llogara Pass
This isn’t a route you take because it’s the quickest way from A to B. Driving the SH8 is the experience itself—a slow, winding journey that pulls you out of time and into the wild rhythms of Albania’s southern coast. We set off from Vlorë on a brilliant, 28°C (82°F) morning at the end of September, and even in the shoulder season, the city was buzzing with life. Including a generous 30-minute stop at the top of Llogara Pass, our drive clocked in at 4.5 hours; in the peak of summer, you should budget 6 to 7 hours for the same trip due to traffic. While the road beyond Llogara is so winding that we averaged just 30-40 km/h, every hairpin turn was worth the concentration for the magical bay views that unfolded after each one.
Watch our video about the trip, shot at the end of September 2025:
As someone who’s driven it more than once and would do it again in a heartbeat, I’ve put together this detailed look at what makes the SH8 so standout. We’ll break down the route segment by segment, starting from Vlorë. Our own drive this time concluded just past Sarandë, with a memorable detour to an authentic agritourism biofarm for lunch. I’ll share the must-stop beaches—and I’ll reveal that authentic agritourism spot at the end. I’ll also give you driving tips for the notorious Llogara Pass and explain exactly why your choice of car can make or break the entire experience.
This isn’t your average road trip—it’s one of Europe’s last great coastal adventures, still flying just under the radar. Bring a full tank, a sense of curiosity, and ideally an SUV. The SH8 is waiting.
Starting the Drive: Vlorë to the Llogara Pass Decision
The SH8 Albanian Riviera route begins right from the promenade in downtown Vlorë, starting with the beaches of Radhime, which have practically merged with the city—though unfortunately, there isn’t a continuous sidewalk. In the shoulder season (late September), an umbrella with two sunbeds cost €10. We stopped for a look early in the morning when the shore was still completely empty. If you wish, you can take a 15-minute detour towards Orikum, where the sea is also beautiful, though it requires driving a few kilometers off the SH8.
Past this point, the road is lined with olive groves, the asphalt is excellent quality, and the ascent is gentle. Near the village of Dukat, you reach a key decision: take the stunning climb over Llogara Pass—which is what we did and highly recommend for the unparalleled panorama—or simply cut under the mountain in the new, 6-kilometer Llogara Tunnel. Construction on the tunnel began in 2023, and it wasn’t fully complete as of our trip in September 2025. Only one of the two tubes was operational with two-way traffic, but as a result, it was free of charge.
How to Plan an Albanian Riviera Road Trip on the SH8
Best Time of Year to Drive the SH8 Coastal Road in Albania
Timing your Albanian Riviera road trip well can make the difference between a smooth, scenic journey and a hot, crowded crawl. While the SH8 is stunning year-round, each season brings its challenges and rewards.
Spring (April–June) and Autumn (September–October) are ideal. Expect cooler temperatures, blooming wildflowers, quieter beaches, and far fewer cars on the road. To give you a real-world example from our trip, the sea in late September was a perfect 25°C (77°F), with air temperatures hovering around 28-30°C (82-86°F). At the Llogara Pass viewpoint, we encountered only a single Polish tour bus, and thankfully, traffic was light. These months truly offer the sweet spot between weather and crowd control.
Summer (July–August) is undeniably beautiful, with perfect beach weather and that electric coastal buzz. But be prepared for heavy traffic on the winding stretches (especially near Llogara), packed accommodation, and full sun from early morning until well into the evening. A working AC is essential, not optional.
Winter (November–March) is for the bold. You can drive the SH8, but conditions change quickly in the mountains—especially at Llogara Pass, where snow and fog sometimes close the road. If you’re attempting a winter road trip in Albania, check forecasts thoroughly and allow extra time for detours.
Best Car to Rent for the SH8 Drive (Including SUV vs. Compact)
While the road is paved throughout, the SH8 is full of switchbacks, blind corners, and cliffside views. Having driven the SH21—arguably Albania’s narrowest and most winding road—just a few days before tackling the SH8 again, this drive felt like a stress-free pleasure cruise in light traffic. However, if you’re a first-timer, you’ll need to stay focused on the curves, especially during summer’s heavy traffic. Choosing the right vehicle will make your experience far more enjoyable.
Compact or mid-size cars are perfectly fine for the SH8 if you’re confident behind the wheel. They handle well and are great for parking in tight towns like Himarë or Dhërmi. We rented a Hyundai Bayon for this trip—it was only a month old, and it proved to be perfectly suited for the task. Fuel cost 1.7 euros per liter in September 2025.
SUVs offer better visibility, more comfort on long curves, and enough clearance for side roads leading to beaches like Gjipe or Mirror Beach. You’ll especially appreciate the extra stability when descending from Llogara.
Convertibles are tempting, but think carefully: the sun is intense, trunk space is limited, and rental costs are usually higher.
Manual or automatic? Manual gives you better control on mountain climbs and descents. Automatics are limited in Albania, so if you need one, book early—especially in peak season.
Where to Rent a Car for the SH8 Albania Road Trip
Your pickup location depends on your route. The SH8 connects Vlorë (north) and Sarandë (south), so start where it makes sense for your itinerary.
Vlorë: Ideal if you want to drive south, beginning with the dramatic views early on.
Sarandë: Best if you’re arriving via ferry from Corfu. Driving north gives you a slower build-up and more detour options toward Ksamil or Butrint.
Tirana Airport: The most rental options are here, we choose this, but it’s 2–3 hours away from the coast. Great for longer road trips in Albania, but less efficient for a quick SH8 run.
No matter where you start, book your rental car early, especially in summer. And if you’re planning off-road detours, double-check your insurance coverage—some roads off the SH8 are steep, gravelly, and tempting.
What to Pack for an Albanian Riviera Road Trip Along the SH8
Don’t treat this like a city commute—driving the SH8 is a commitment, and a few extra items will make the ride easier, safer, and more fun.
Fuel: Start with a full tank in Vlorë or Sarandë. Stations exist in Dhërmi and Himarë, but they’re sparse outside major towns.
Offline Maps: Mobile coverage can reportedly fade around Llogara, though we didn’t experience this ourselves. Our Vodafone “Unlimited GP” package, which we bought at the airport for €33 (valid for 21 days), worked well throughout the entire country. The only spotty service we encountered was in the valley near Theth, but not on Llogara Pass. Still, to be safe, download Google Maps or Maps.me in advance. We also used the Waze app for navigation.
Water & Snacks: Whether you’re stuck behind a slow-moving van or enjoying an impromptu viewpoint stop, you’ll want these on hand.
Camera: Obvious, but don’t forget extra batteries or memory cards—this is not the place to run out of space.
Time & Patience: This road rewards those who slow down. Don’t schedule tight transfers or plan on rushing. To give you a real-world example, it took us a good three hours just to get from the Llogara viewpoint to our destination at Tamo’s Farm. The SH8 dictates its own pace.
Albanian Riviera Road Trip Itinerary: Driving the SH8 from Vlorë to Sarandë
Expect high mountain passes, quiet coves, traditional villages, and some of the most rewarding viewpoints in southern Europe.
Below is a full breakdown of the route, divided into six key driving segments. Each includes road conditions, estimated driving time, must-stop spots, and optional detours—based on firsthand experience and optimized for the modern traveler.
1., Vlorë to Llogara National Park Entrance
As mentioned earlier, leaving Vlorë, the SH8 road begins its coastal journey along the shimmering Bay of Vlorë. This northern gateway to the Albanian Riviera road trip is scenic yet relaxed—a perfect warm-up before the mountain terrain ahead. The road is smooth, well-maintained, and hugs the coastline as it passes Orikum and gently enters more rural landscapes.
- Distance: ~30–35 km
- Driving Time: 45–60 minutes
- Highlight: The beaches of Radhime and Orikum
- Why it’s worth it: Easy driving with photo-worthy pullouts and a soft start to the SH8 adventure.
Looking down at Vlorë Bay — the starting point of the SH8 road trip across Albania’s Riviera.
2., The Ascent Through Llogara Pass: SH8’s Most Iconic Climb
After Orikum, the SH8 rises dramatically into Llogara National Park, delivering the most iconic and challenging climb of the entire road trip. This is the most iconic stretch of the SH8 road in Albania, with sharp switchbacks and pine-covered cliffs leading up to the dramatic Llogara Pass — a highlight of any Albanian Riviera road trip.
Is Llogara Pass hard to drive?
It requires full attention and confident handling, but it’s paved, manageable, and incredibly rewarding for experienced drivers. That said, if you’re considering tackling the Llogara Pass with an electric rental, it’s worth understanding how EVs handle steep climbs — and whether the region has reliable charging access.
Tips for Llogara Pass:
- Use low gears when climbing and engine braking when descending
- Honk gently on blind corners (locals do)
- Expect sudden fog, temperature drops, and high winds at the summit
- Stop at the summit café viewpoint — one of Albania’s most photographed spots
- Then stop the Llogara Lookout – put a photo here, that explains everything
- For a closer look at the road’s elevation, hairpin turns, and dramatic drop-offs, this profile of the SH8 through Llogara Pass dives into the technical side of the drive
- Distance: ~20–25 km
- Driving Time: ~1 hour (plus photo stops)
- Highlight: Sweeping vistas over the Ionian coast from the Llogara summit
- Suggested vehicle: compact or SUV recommended for better control and stability
Sweeping sea views from Llogara Lookout — a must-stop point on the SH8 road, and the most unforgettable leg of the Albanian Riviera drive.
3. Llogara to Dhërmi and Vuno: Beaches, Forests and Hidden Bays
Descending from Llogara, the landscape opens up to sweeping sea views and access to some of Albania’s most beautiful and secluded beaches. This stretch of the SH8 rewards spontaneous detours and beach-hopping.
Key beach detours:
- Palasë Beach – Easily accessible, limited services, good for a short swim
- Dhërmi Beach – Requires a descent via narrow road, lively but crowded in peak season
- Gjipe Beach – Stunning cove, reached via steep dirt track + 30 min hike (SUV required for closer access)
Optional village stop:
- Vuno Village – Quiet, traditional, with stone houses and mountain views
- Distance: ~20–30 km
- Driving Time: ~1 hour with stops
- Highlight: Access to remote beaches and cliffside pullouts
- Why it’s worth it: Ideal spot to slow down, take photos, or detour for a swim
Gjipe Beach — one of the SH8’s best-kept secrets, hidden between Dhërmi and Himarë, accessible only by hike or 4×4 road.
4., Dhërmi to Himarë: Clifftop Curves and Swimmable Coves
This stretch continues the SH8’s winding journey along the sea, passing through hidden bays and charming beach roads.
Accessible beaches:
- Jalë Beach – Popular, easily reached via side road
- Livadhi Beach – Wide shoreline and straightforward parking
- In Himarë: Stop for lunch or a swim. The promenade is walkable, and Himarë Castle offers panoramic views—if you’re up for the steep drive or hike.
5., Himarë to Qeparo via Porto Palermo: Fortress Views and Long Beaches
South of Himarë, the terrain becomes slightly less dramatic, but no less beautiful. You’ll pass olive groves, rolling hills, and hidden coves.
Don’t miss:
- Porto Palermo – Short turn-off to a historic triangular fortress with parking
- Llamani Beach – Small, quiet cove
- Borsh Beach – Albania’s longest beach (7 km), great for a longer break
- Upper Qeparo – Steep detour up, but well worth it for the views and stone alleys
6., Qeparo to Sarandë: Final Leg of the SH8 Coastal Road
This last stretch is calmer, with less dramatic elevation but continued scenic views. Villages like Lukovë add charm to the ride as the Ionian Sea peeks through the hills. Eventually, the sea disappears from your right as the road dips into a valley for a while. From here, you can turn towards Sarandë, where you should expect more traffic and signs of urban life. Whether this is the end of your Albanian Riviera road trip or the start of a southern extension (Ksamil, Butrint), it’s a fitting finish to one of Europe’s most underappreciated coastal routes.
Our Detour: An Authentic Lunch at Tamo’s Biofarm
Instead of heading into Sarandë, we turned southeast for a planned lunch at Tamo’s Biofarm. The Tamo family has lived here, near the Greek border, for at least four generations—a respect for their history is evident from the high-quality digitized photos of their ancestors on the restaurant walls. They have always had a garden, vineyards, olive trees, and animals—both in 1890 and today. They opened their restaurant three years ago, welcoming both groups and individual guests.
We dropped right into the middle of this year’s grape harvest. The elder ‘Papa’ Tamo was hauling grapes in a wheelbarrow, shirtless, while a part-time worker who was like family crushed Otello and Italian Muscat grapes. Inside a dark pantry, raki—the traditional Albanian grape spirit—was dripping from a still. Papa Tamo invited us to taste a glass of the fresh brew. The temptation was immense, but Albania’s zero-tolerance policy for driving and my acid reflux jointly decided against it. To our amusement, Papa Tamo was so delighted by this that he happily drank the glass he had offered us himself.
Meanwhile, our lunch was served: roasted chicken, fresh vegetables, salads, olives, and various sauces. It was as satisfying for us as the raki was for Papa Tamo. We paid €45, which only seemed a little pricey because, on previous days in Theth, Lake Koman, and Vlorë, the two of us had eaten full dinners for just €25-30.
Ready to drive Albania’s SH8 road?
Whether you’re tackling the Llogara Pass or beach-hopping along the Ionian coast, the right car rental in Albania can make all the difference. Here’s where to book with confidence:
DiscoverCars – Ideal for travelers needing a reliable SUV or automatic. Their filters make it easy to compare full coverage options, which is crucial for steep mountain roads and remote beaches off the SH8.
Localrent – Great for direct bookings with Albanian providers. Offers flexible pickup/drop-off in Vlorë, Sarandë, or Himarë—plus WhatsApp support and local insights. Perfect if you’re planning a custom SH8 itinerary.
Rent from Locals – For those who want to rent a 4×4 from someone who actually drives these roads daily. Expect personalized terms and vehicles built for Albania’s terrain—especially useful on gravel detours off the SH8 highway.
Pro tip: Book early in summer. SUVs and automatics get reserved quickly—especially for SH8 road trips during July and August.
Driving Time & Pacing the SH8
The SH8 highway from Vlorë to Sarandë may only cover about 130 kilometers, but don’t be fooled by the distance. The constant switchbacks, mountain climbs, and cliffside views slow you down—and rightly so. This isn’t just a drive from one city to another; it’s the core of any well-paced Albanian Riviera road trip, and rushing through it defeats the point entirely.
While it’s technically possible to drive the route in four hours without stopping, that kind of pace would skip over everything that makes the SH8 unforgettable. Realistically, plan for five to six hours of pure driving time. Better yet, give yourself the full day. That allows time for a coffee stop with a view at the Llogara summit, a beach break at Borsh or Livadhi, and a leisurely seafood lunch in Himarë.
Those building a multi-day Albanian Riviera road trip itinerary often overnight in Dhërmi, Himarë, or Qeparo—especially if arriving late in the day or wanting to explore more than just the roadside.
Safety & Practical Driving Tips for the SH8
The SH8 is fully paved and in decent condition throughout, but it still requires attention and a calm, patient approach. Tight bends, steep descents, and unpredictable drivers mean safety comes down to focus and good habits behind the wheel.
Keep speeds low, particularly before blind corners or village entrances. If you’re driving downhill from Llogara, engine braking is crucial—overheated brakes are one of the most common mistakes on this route. Make sure your car insurance is comprehensive, as mountain animals can appear suddenly on the road – as you see on my video above- , especially near villages or forested bends. Let locals overtake you, and don’t feel pressured to match their pace.
A herd of goats crossing the SH8 road – a reminder to drive carefully on your Albanian Riviera road trip.
Sun glare can be intense in the late afternoon when heading south; sunglasses are a must. And while the views may tempt you to pull over at every bend, only stop in clear, designated viewpoints. Never block the road or stop on blind corners—even for a photo.
If you’re driving in winter or late fall, check the weather before setting out. Llogara Pass can experience sudden fog or even closures due to snow.
Why the SH8 Is the Highlight of an Albanian Riviera Road Trip
Some roads simply take you somewhere, and some roads become the reason for going. The SH8 falls firmly in the second category. Its scenery is cinematic, its rhythm unpredictable, and its rewards far greater than its modest length might suggest. No stretch of road connects as many iconic beaches, hillside villages, and historic viewpoints in Albania as this one.
While public transport does run along parts of the coast, nothing compares to the freedom of driving the SH8 at your own pace. Renting a reliable vehicle—preferably an SUV for visibility, comfort, and detour access—makes all the difference. Whether you’re taking a spontaneous detour to Gjipe Beach, navigating Llogara’s switchbacks, or watching the Ionian sunset from a roadside pullout, the SH8 offers the kind of road trip experience that stays with you long after you’ve reached Sarandë.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) – Driving the SH8 Albanian Riviera Road
How long does it take to drive the SH8 from Vlorë to Sarandë?
In the summer, plan for 6-7 hours. If you also want to stop at beaches, it’s best to dedicate a full day to the trip. During the shoulder seasons (spring and autumn), traffic is lighter, and the drive can usually be completed comfortably in under 5 hours.
Is Llogara Pass dangerous to drive?
The blind hairpin turns and climbs require focus and concentration, and using engine braking on the descent requires a confident driving technique. However, driving the entire SH8 is by no means an impossible task for an experienced driver.
Do I need an SUV or 4×4 for the SH8?
Not for the main road. However, if you plan to visit Gjipe Beach, then yes, as the access road is only manageable with a 4×4 vehicle. Be sure to inform your rental company in advance if you intend to visit Gjipe.
What are the best viewpoints along the SH8 coastal road?
The main Llogara viewpoint at the summit and the panoramic restaurant at the top of Llogara Pass.
Which beaches are easily accessible directly from the SH8?
Radhime and Orikum are closest to Vlorë, but heading south, the beaches of Dhërmi, Himarë, Qeparo, and Borsh are also beautiful and generally easy to access.
When is the best time to drive the SH8?
We recommend May or September. The weather is pleasant, the sea is still warm, and the traffic is light during these months.
Can the SH8 be done as a day trip?
We would not recommend it as a round trip from a single base. Driving the winding 130-kilometer coastal road at an average of 30-40 km/h would mean two 5-hour legs (off-season) or two 6-7 hour legs (high-season) in one day, which can be very exhausting.
About the Author: Peter is an Albania travel expert with 3+ years of hands-on experience driving the country’s mountain passes and coastal roads. He owns property in Qerret and visits multiple times yearly to test rental cars and update his guides.
